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This is my "how to" shave the
door handles on a T-Bird. Mine is an '89 and I can't tell you
if they are all the same, but this will give you a good idea of
what's involved with shaving you door handles. I am using the
AutoLoc 35lbs. pull solenoids wired to my alarm. I didn't install
any door "poppers" because the door opens enough with
out them. Some of the pictures below can be enlarged by clicking
on them.
NOTE : It is a good idea to devise some
sort of back-up system to get into the car incase something fails.
!! BEFORE YOU GET STARTED ROLL A WINDOW
DOWN !!
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| Getting
started : you need to remove the door handles by drilling out the
rivets that hold them on. I chose to drill through the handles since
I was throwing them away. |
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LEFT : This picture shows a clip that holds
the lock portion of the exterior handle in place. It can be removed
with a screw driver.
RIGHT: The bottom bolt of the window track
needs to be removed so there is room to work where the automatic
lock solenoid is/use to be.
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| LEFT
: The yellow portion circled is where the exterior handle connects
to the door latch. That rod pushes down on the lever to release the
latch. The solenoid we add later will pull down on that same lever. |
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LEFT & UPPER RIGHT :
There are quite a few rods to be removed so the latch can be taken
out. I removed the plastic bushing if I was reusing that lever.
Most of the levers are left unused.
RIGHT : Use a large Philips head screw driver
to remove the latch assembly from the car. I removed it because
I thought it was easier to work with.
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LEFT : Removed latch, I cleaned it up and
greased it well. The cleanliness of the latch and if it was greased
played a large roll in how far the door popped open when the solenoid
was operated.
RIGHT : These are the rest of the latch parts
removed. Most of them were thrown away.
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LEFT : Cleaned up latch and the solenoid is
attached. The cable clamp came with the solenoid. I had to install
and remove it from the door multiple times to get the length of
the cable just right so it popped open consistently.
RIGHT : Shows where the cable was run for
practice popping.
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LEFT : The 2 mounting screws, supplied with
the solenoid. The upper hole is a factory hole that had a rivet
in it to hold the locking solenoid. Drill out that rivet and use
that hole for the top solenoid mount. Drill another hole below that
for the other supplied screw.
RIGHT : View from inside the door. The wire
in the picture was one of the wires used on the locking solenoid.
I cut the plug off and located that same wire in the kickpanel.
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| I cut
that wire and taped off the car side of that wire and put the solenoid
end of that wire to my alarm. This saved me from having to run a new
wire through the door grommet. |
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LEFT : I gouged my solenoid on the bolt for
the bottom of the window track.
RIGHT : On to the body work. I made a cardboard
templet to cut the metal from.
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LEFT : I ground the door down to metal where
the welding will be done.
RIGHT : The metal filler panel is cut and
ready to be welded into place.
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| LEFT
& RIGHT : The filler panels are welded in. It should be noted
that they are tack welded completely around the filler panels. This
is to keep the heat down on the door skin and hopefully minimize the
warping of the metal. |
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LEFT : Grinding the welds down. The grinding
can also make to much heat so keep the metal cool so it won't warp.
Also cover your glass so it won't pit it!
RIGHT : I use kitty Hair as my first layer
of filler. I think it is a good idea since its stronger than plain
body filler.
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LEFT : Primered and almost ready for paint.
RIGHT : Finished
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