Skid Plates

Spark It or Park It !

Its all about draggin. These skip plates will protect your cars undercarriage as well as provide a nice spark show. If you do not plan on draggin your bird in the rear. Plates really aren't necessary. If you have a 3.8 EFI I recommend you put a skid plate on the front. On those engines the drain plug has a dropped area that will sit on the grounnd when the car is layed. These cast oil pans will not bend so you can not just hammer them out. It will just crack a piece off. These oil pans are not cheap to replace. You either have to raise the engine really high and or drop the front corssmember to get the pan clear of the oil pick-up tube. The Moral of the story, Don't drag those pans!!! The 4.6L and 5.0L don't have as much of a problem.

BAGGEDBIRDS send in you skid plate pics and I will add them to this page.
This is one of the rear body mounts. This SHOULD sit on the ground when the car is completely layed. I used the same bar steel here as I did on the rear skid platse. It seems to only drag if the the front isn't lifted that high while draggin. It will also drag on a high centered bumps. I may be removing my plates there.
This is the rear skid plate. This is the one that drags when the back is layed. It actually will not touch the ground if the front is layed also. I have added to mine 3 times. The last add-on was courtesy of Grover Fabrications. Weld all you skid plates on!!!
This front skid plate is welded directly to the front crossmember. The plate is about 8" wide x 12" long x 1/4" thick. I cut a notch out of the plate for the drain plug dropped area to sit. I did this so the plate could sit higher without hitting the oil pan. The red arrow indicates some 1/4" thick rubber pads I put between the pan and the plate. If the plate sits directly againist the pan it could cause hairline cracks and you will hear ticking as the motor vibrates againist it. It also helps provide some support for the rear of the plate. The plate is just cantilevered off the front crossmember.